WHERE TO STAY...

For years the Medoc didn’t have anywhere lovely to stay-which was part of the reason we ended up buying our own place there! I’m so thrilled that some visionaries have created some new fantastic places to stay:

Maison d’Estournel is the new hotel project from Cos d’Estournel, which is owned by Michel Reybier, who owns the La Reserve group. Rooms are lovely and overlook the beautiful grounds. Chateau Ormes de Pez is a lovely guest house in the heart of St. Estephe.

We occasionally rent our own house, Maison Medoc. It’s two small merchant houses combined into one, and we spent years collecting each piece within the house. There’s a lovely garden with a pool. 

Not quite in the Medoc, but just across the river in St Emilion, the Chateau Troplong Mondot just opened this year. Guests can rent the entire house, or just take rooms or cottages--all of which are so well appointed, and sit within the loveliest garden and vineyards. Bonus--there’s an amazing Michelin starred chef in the kitchen.

WHere to eat…

La Gam’Guette  in Le Verdon-sur-mer is a summer-only outdoor restaurant at a shrimp farm. They serve flambeed shrimp, fries, and oysters, and you order wine by the color! 

The Sunday morning market in Vendays Montlivet is one of our favorite spots. At 11am the locals start to gather, ordering platters of oysters and carafes of wine. 

La Maison d’Estournel is our favorite spot for an elegant meal.

WHat to do…

Our favorite wine tastings are at Lafon Rochet, with owner Basile Tesseron, and at Chateau Larrivaux, with owner Berengere Tesseron. They are married and each have their own family estate. Berangere’s has been in her family for 400 years, and has always been run by a woman. 

We love to go to Soulac-sur-mer, a caught-in-time beach town that sits on the Atlantic. We have a casual lunch on the beach, and rent a striped cotton cabana for the day.

WHERE TO SHOP…

In Soulac-sur-mer there are always summer shops that have the best straw hats, and they are so inexpensive you don’t mind if the wind steals them away.

The Carrefour chain grocery store might seem an unlikely place to suggest, but they have a great selection of espadrilles. Just make sure you get the ones Made in France! 

WHAT TO pack... 

Always pack a linen kaftan which you can throw on over almost anything. I am never without a good pain of jeans, marinière t-shirt and a safari jacket which are my staples. The best travel companions are a great Panama hat and Le Monde Beryl satin mules which are so comfortable and travel around the world with me. In the summer, a linen dress with Ancient Greek or K Jacques sandals or (family-run artisanal leather sandals also from France). I always pack an oversized sweater for cooler evenings and a bucket tote. The Medoc region of France is all about simplicity.